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Four Texan restaurants – including an Austin eatery from a popular and prolific hospitality group – bask in the national spotlight. Esquire magazine named it one of America’s 40 Best New Restaurants.
They are:
- Hestia: the Austin Live Fire Restaurant by chef Kevin Fink and the Emmer & Rye group (fourth)
- March: a Mediterranean-inspired tasting menu restaurant in Houston (sixth place)
- Taste: a Spanish- and Mexican-inspired tasting menu restaurant in Houston (17th)
- Roots southern table: Top chef alum Tiffany Derry’s restaurant is dedicated to Black Southern cuisine in Dallas (19th)
Four authors – Omar Mamoon, Joshua David Stein, former Esquire Food and Beverage Editor Jeff Gordinier, and Culture and Lifestyle Director Kevin Sintumuang – made the list by traveling the country looking for the best restaurants with the best food to find. What did you find?
“The transporting power of food, the heartbreaking nature of hospitality – real things too,” writes Sintumuang. “That is just to say that in these abnormal times we need both normality and the escape of restaurants more than ever.”
He describes some of the specific styles featured on the list, including “eating made from raw, elemental fire and charcoal” – kudos to Hestia – as well as “non-preaching vegan meals.”
Stein praises the kitchen that Fink prepares on the 6 meter high, wood-burning stove from Hestia, where temperatures can reach 1,200 degrees.
“It’s hard to believe that the same fire that cooks the halibut tenderly – held a meter above the flame and served with a shimmering mirror glaze of a brown butter sauce – for the wild char on the dry-aged Wagyu Bavette with hers. the red center is responsible, accompanied by varnished potato and butter layers that are wrapped in a firm, croissant-like bun. “
Sintumuang also praises the modern tasting menus, which are becoming increasingly popular in the catering industry.
“In the hands of the right team, they can still be a sublime, luxurious experience rather than the expensive, endless burden they often get into,” he writes.
Both Houston restaurants on the list represent this new breed of tasting menu eatery. Stein praises March for its menus, which are inspired by different Mediterranean regions, and finds similar thrills at Degust, where two chefs playfully spice up Spanish and Mexican-inspired dishes like double-fried octopus.
Finally, Stein praises Derry’s work at Dallas’ Roots Southern Table for dishes like fried chicken with duck fat and a version of shrimp and grits presented as Italian-style arancini.
“Roots is clear evidence that Black South cuisine from the Creole coast – it incorporates elements of French, Spanish, African and Caribbean traditions, alchemizing such as forced migrations and others – is both the country’s greatest culinary heritage and its way into the future is. “
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https://austin.culturemap.com/news/restaurants-bars/11-18-21-esquire-magazine-best-new-restaurants-hestia-aus/
