Santa Fe steakhouse a decadent evening for carnivores, pescatarians and vegetarians alike

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The New Mexico Cut ($ 52) is a locally grown 7-ounce Wagyu beef fillet that is served with half a head of toasted garlic and watercress. (Heather Hunter / For the Diary)

As we roll into the Christmas season and think about restaurants where we can take friends and family with us for an exceptional experience and excellent cuisine, the Market Steer Steakhouse in downtown Santa Fe at the St. Francis Hotel checks most of the boxes. More importantly, this is not a carnivore-only restaurant, but one where pescatarians and vegetarians can be just as happy as their omnivores. While I usually avoid hotel restaurants, Market Steer is an exception.

Knowing that most restaurants are struggling with fewer staff these days, I made reservations well in advance. On arrival we were warmly greeted by Walter the manager and a hostess who quickly escorted us to a cozy corner table that overlooked the rustic but elegant dining room and the hustle and bustle along Don Gaspar and Water Streets.

When the waitress poured our sparkling water, she carefully used a napkin to make sure no water spilled on my nearby phone. That thoughtful touch immediately caught my attention and assured me that we would be a little pleased. Our knowledgeable waiter David provided insight into the menu, gave advice on what to order, and reminded us that sharing is recommended.

Arctic char ($ 37) is served on a bed of barley risotto with watercress sprigs. (Heather Hunter / For the Diary)

To kick off the decadent evening on the right note, we ordered two glasses of wine – a St. Francis Old Vine Zinfandel ($ 13) and an Austin Cabernet Sauvignon from Austin Hope ($ 15). In both California wines, the Austin Hope won with a great jammy taste that drowned like grape juice. This wine was so good that my husband jokingly announced that he could “start drinking again.” While we were drinking our wine we enjoyed the free ciabatta bread served with whipped green chili butter that was dreamy with a tiny blast of heat.

The dining tables are generously separated to provide both privacy and Covid security. Six beautiful and large iron chandeliers dimly lit the room, even though the chandelier above our table had a blown lightbulb. I figured if this was the most egregious mistake of the night it would be a good night.

The butterscotch creme brulee ($ 12) was a brilliant mix of butterscotch budino and creme brulee. (Heather Hunter / For the Diary)

The shrimp cocktail starter ($ 15) arrived on a round platter filled with river stones. Six peeled and deveined prawns appeared to have arrived in the kitchen frozen and already peeled and deveined. Though colossal in size, they lacked taste. Unfortunately, soaking the prawns in a lime mignonette and the accompanying cocktail sauce with a mezcal tip couldn’t make this starter shine.

Another starter ideal to share is the wedge salad ($ 13). Two baby noble salad pieces are topped with chopped bacon, tomato halves, red onions, blue cheese crumble and a light but tasty blue cheese dressing. Though small, it was just enough to please.

As we continued to relax and sip our wine, a table of three business people nearby told David the waiter how they always come back for the clam starter and asked if the chef could share their recipe. Before long, the cook and owner Kathleen Crook happily came to explain to these gentlemen how to prepare the mussels at home. Crook’s genuine concern for her guests was palpable as she gave them step-by-step instructions.

The shrimp cocktail starter ($ 15) is served with a mezcal-tipped cocktail sauce. (Heather Hunter / For the Diary)

As a starter, I ordered the arctic char ($ 37), which arrived on a bed of barley risotto with watercress sprigs. Much like salmon, the fish was cooked perfectly to medium in the middle and offered a meaty alternative for those like me who avoid beef. My husband ordered the New Mexico Cut ($ 52), a locally grown 7-ounce Wagyu beef fillet. Cooked on medium rare, the steak was cut open diagonally and beautifully coated with half a clove of garlic and watercress. The meat was so tender that my husband almost cut it up with a fork. Either unseasoned or lightly seasoned, the meat itself was super flavorful while the 7-ounce serving was the right size for someone who no longer eats like a teenager.

The sauces that accompany the meat are a trademark at Market Steer. To get the full experience, we ordered the flight of eight sauces ($ 16) which the waiter encouraged. If you’re dining with a group, be sure to try the flight, but if there are two of you, order a sauce or two a la carte. The flight was superfluous and excessive for both of us, especially since I had fish.

As a side dish, we opted for the classic sauteed spinach ($ 9) and homemade french fries ($ 10). The spinach was barely served withered – a welcome surprise – so he had another bite. The fries were just ok and we used them to dip in the sauces. As a fries fan, I found the fries a little limp and lukewarm. The rust-red potatoes were still skinned, which is nice, but lacked texture. Perhaps a double fry method would be an improvement.

At 6:30 a.m. the dining room filled with happy conversations and the laughter of well-dressed people, from young to adult. Tables of men, women and mixed groups happily enjoyed a Tuesday night on the town.

To finish off, we couldn’t resist the butterscotch crème brûlée ($ 12). We’re lovers of butterscotch budino and creme brulee, and this was a brilliant mix of two of our favorite desserts. The required few dashes of sea salt on top took this delicious dessert to a new level of excellence. We can return to dessert when the cravings wear off.

The well-trained and well-rehearsed staff was constantly on the move throughout the evening, checking tables, talking to guests and making sure that everyone was happy while they were eating at the Market Steer. The ambience of the restaurant is relaxing, with a touch of hospitality that underscores the owner’s intentions. Restaurants with a chef and owner in the kitchen promise a meal that “is exactly what the chef wants,” as our waiter emphasized when he greeted us. It also guarantees a dining experience that will keep you coming back for more.

Read more about the Santa Fe food and beverage scene on Heather Hunter’s blog, The Cowgirl Gourmet in Santa Fe, on thecowgirlgourmetinsantafe.com.

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