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This month’s list of new restaurants includes the newest downtown steakhouse, an innovative Mexican restaurant in The Heights, and a barbeque place with great potential. As the pace of restaurant openings has slowed down a bit recently, this month’s column also includes some slightly older restaurants that still deserve attention.
As always, these are roughly ranked by the priority I would give it to try, but all of the items on the list have something to offer. The write-ups are based on actual eating experience in the listed restaurants (sometimes more than once). They’re less formal reviews than a guide to what to expect along with some suggestions for ordering.
Bull bull
The downtown Four Seasons Hotel has discontinued its Italian restaurant Quattro in favor of this pan-Latin steakhouse concept by Richard Sandoval, the globetrotter chef who also created the hotel’s prestigious Bayou & Bottle lobby bar. As part of the remodel, the dining room now revolves around a bar dedicated to cocktails on one side and ceviche on the other. This is a good starting point for what sets Toro Toro apart from other steak houses.
Inspired by Brazilian churrascarias, a meal at Toro Toro could begin with parts to share, such as the signature smoked guacamole, amarillo ceviche with ahi tuna, or a Nikei-inspired sushi roll. If you want an alternative to red meat, you can try the salmon (served delightfully medium rare) with a sweet and spicy bacon, morita and chilli jam. There are plenty of Instagram-worthy presentations and table decorations, such as a tomahawk ribeye flamed with tequila and sliced, or the La Bomba dessert that falls on the table – spoiler alert – with various ice creams and Reveal side dishes.
Downtown offers plenty of options for people who want a traditional steakhouse experience (Pappas Bros. is just a short walk from the hotel, for example). Toro Toro offers an alternative that still focuses on beef alongside lighter, fresher dishes that could be a meal in itself.
Soto Houston
Granted, I’m a little late in getting to that Austin import that claimed the former Bistecca room in Lower Westheimer, but sushi postponed is not being refused. Chef-owner Andy Chef and experienced sushi chef Yoshi Katsuyama (Uchi, Aqui) form a dynamic performance tester who has created a convincing menu with hot and cold dishes that are both tasty and visually appealing.
One of the highlights of a recent omakase was the salmon over the fire, where flames lightly kiss slices of sashimi; a four-part tuna nigiri flight that contained a piece of heavily marbled toro collar; and an interactive Wagyu Beef and Hot Rock. Even those who order à la carte should opt for the signature salmon belly as well as the homemade potato chip nigiri and chocolate foie gras. Pro tip: ask Katsuyama to present the sea bass soup; it’s unforgettable.
Goats
After gaining some recognition for his short-lived Belly of the Beast, Chef Thomas Bille has found a new home on ex-Calle Onze on 11th Street. Described as a Mexican-American restaurant, Chivos applies Mexican flavors and techniques to dishes from other cultures. For example, Sichuan-style chili wantons turn into pozole dumplings in pork broth, and the bread service turns into fluffy flour tortillas with truffle butter and salmon roe that anyone who has had an order of Nancy cakes at Nancy’s Hustle has to order.
Bille has also mastered the traditional Mexican flavors, as demonstrated with roast duck breast paired with a complex fig mole and a traditional tuna tostada. As the restaurant is part of the Night Moves Hospitality (Trash Panda Drinking Club, Space Cowboy), guests can be sure that cocktails will taste just as good as the food.
J-Bar-M Grill
No barbecue restaurant in Houston has the size of this EaDo newbie. After years of construction, it occupies most of a city block that its owners have owned by the family for over a century. The smokehouse has 4000-gallon offset smokers and two cookers for preparing whole Carolina-style pigs.
Pitmaster Willow Villarreal and head chef Jasmine Barela, who caused a sensation a few years ago with their Willow’s Texas Barbecue Food Truck, now have a much larger stage to showcase their skills. While the pit room offers tasteful renditions of classic Texas cues – including well-made, peppery breasts, juicy turkey, and slightly flavorful pork ribs – it’s the sides of Barela that stand out first. Crispy French fries, sweet and sour marinated tomatoes, hearty charro beans and allspice cheese in reference quality provide tempting side dishes for all three meat dishes. A full bar means plenty of drink options, especially when dinner is added.
Whether J-Bar-M will be named one of Houston’s best barbecue spots remains to be seen, but its size and culinary talent testify to its ambition to deserve that kind of recognition.
Feges BBQ spring sprig
Freshly named one of the state’s 50 Best BBQs by Texas Monthly, now seems like a good time to pay tribute to chef couple Patrick Feges and Erin Smith for this bigger, better, standalone version of the restaurant they started in the food industry. Court Greenway Plaza. Not only does the menu feature all of the classic Texas smoked meat dishes, but also the whole pork that has become Feges’ trademark.
Non-barbecue entrees such as a twin patty smash burger, a porcini crust hanging steak, and salads add depth to the menu. With more than a dozen options to choose from, vegetarians can prepare a meal from side dishes like spicy Korean braised beef, Money Cat potatoes, Moroccan-flavored carrots, and the chickpea-based chana masala.
Smith’s time at Camerata means the wine list is well thought out and offers some fancy pairing options. Add the convenience of being open for lunch and dinner, and it’s no wonder Spring Branch guests flock to this newbie.
Laos Sze Chuan
Finding an outpost of the acclaimed Chicago restaurant in an obscure Katy mall may be a bit of a surprise, but fans of savory Sichuan cuisine should make the trip. Highlights of a recent meal included Peking duck with really crispy skin, Chengdu-style green beans with a bite of bite, and cooked fish fillet in a spicy Sichuan sauce that gave just the right tingling quality of Sichuan peppercorn. Chef’s special dry chilli chicken is a well-executed, flavorful version of the fried chicken found in other restaurants.
Thai cafe in Sao Lao
Independence Heights has a nice destination for both Thai and Laotian food. With only about 10 tables, this humble eatery doesn’t have a lot of frills, but the flavorful dishes are certainly a draw. Think of the larb that trades the usual pork or chicken for filet mignon made to order; don’t worry, it still packs enough heat to make even chiliheads sweat (at least a little). Similarly, ribeye adds meaty depth to dishes like boat noodles, a Thai-style pho, and red curry. BYOB with a $ 5 cork fee makes it an ideal destination to bring a nice bottle of Riesling or champagne.
Beetroot
The owners of Hungry’s have added this plant-based concept to their Energy Corridor location on Memorial Drive. While the menu offers many meat alternatives such as cheesesteak or gyros with seitan, the strongest dishes on the menu make vegetables shine. These include a poke bowl-style dish with roasted beets and Brussels sprouts, a soba noodle salad with a sweet and tangy ginger, sesame chilli dressing, and a spinach and artichoke dip that is filling and dairy-free at the same time. Juices and a well-composed cocktail menu make for convincing drink options.
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https://houston.culturemap.com/news/restaurants-bars/11-19-21-where-to-eat-now-best-new-restaurants-november-toro-toro-soto-chivos-j-bar-m/
