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Potato salad, pork ribs, brisket, turkey and the free brisket bite at la Barbecue (Photos by Rod Make)
As the owners of la Barbecue, LeAnn Mueller and Alison Clem are not just life companions – they are also business partners. The business is smoked meat and business is good.
LeAnn Mueller, who grew up at Louie Mueller’s, hails from this famous family of barbecue suppliers in Taylor, and for the past nine years she and Clem have brought that craft tradition to Austin at la Barbecue. After years of working with a trailer parked in various locations around town, her handcrafted business has finally found a permanent home.
The trailer was formerly housed at Quickie Pickie’s in East Cesar Chavez. The owners of la Barbecue had 30 days to either buy the place or move out to force a decision. As luck would have it, there was a prime space just a few blocks away.
“We were lucky enough to have our friend Nathan [Hill]who owned White Horse hooked us up with his real estate agent, “Mueller said.” I thought, ‘What about Mongers?’ and the guy said, ‘I happened to have this lot.’ “
A manifestation of the two women who run it, the space presents a restaurant that is all about friends and family.
With that they had secured a location. (The fish restaurant Mongers moved to the Vino Vino area in Hyde Park last summer.) The winter apocalypse delayed the opening of la Barbecue, but in May of this year la Barbecue officially opened as a brick and mortar joint.
The room is a manifestation of the two women who guide it. Everywhere the eye falls on another work of art that the two have commissioned or made. There are brand new graphics along with worn photos showcasing a restaurant that is all about friends and family.
Step into the toilets and be amazed – not what you would expect from a typical BBQ area, but definitely in keeping with what is now East Austin. The walls of one are covered in works of art by Xavier Schipani and inspired by Studio 54 in all its outrageousness, while the other shows a collage of Mueller’s own photos, composed by Zuzu and tinted pink. Definitely try to visit both of them.
Studio 54 bathroom by Xavier Schipani
Collage bathroom by Zuzu Perkal
Upstairs next to the cash register there are family photos and memorabilia from the Mueller clan. Mueller’s father, Bobby, who passed away in 2008, feels like an invisible presence overseeing the process. Since their mother Trish passed away earlier this year, it is obvious that Mueller and Clem are continuing an old family tradition.
With all the talk about the building, what about the food? Anyone who has eaten at Louie Mueller’s will recognize what is going on here, from the free piece of delicious beef that is placed on the tray when the order is placed, to the salt and pepper rub, which is more than enough seasoning for the flag bearer, the brisket, is. The meat offers the usual variety one would expect, but the sides differ a little from a more traditional menu. While there are simple offerings like potato salad and pinto beans, the chipotle coleslaw, as well as mussels and cheese, offer some interesting options.
La Barbecue dining room
The restaurant isn’t the only company these two cook. During the pandemic, the Red Rocket Weiner Wagon, inspired by the Taylor Meat Company’s red hot dogs, opened. The homemade chili and kimchi showcase Asian flavors inspired by the couple’s travels. The car now shows up once a month at la Barbecue at an after-hour summer camp and accompanies other stoner food like the Sloppy Hoe and 420 nachos.
At the other end of the spectrum is their supper club. This members-only get-together is designed to be a more upscale experience and is held monthly and allows Mueller to show off some of her other culinary skills.
“Supper Club is actually the opposite of Summer Camp,” said Mueller. “I can really play with food here. It should be an intimate culinary experience.”
They cite the time they spent in lockdown as the inspiration for the Supper Club’s menu, with the couple stuck at home trying all sorts of new recipes. Now these creations can find their way into the world.
“In 2020 LeAnn cooked a lot in the house,” said Clem. “She’s created so many recipes. It’s really nice that she can allow people to try it.”
Like many other restaurants in town, la Barbecue added a shop within a shop last year and opened a small deli aptly named la Deli that sells fresh and dry goods to the public. Items like home-dried bacon and even caviar can be purchased. Further changes are in sight.
Exterior mural by Xavier Schipani
“Right now we’re putting gravel in the back and a friend of ours is making a truck of ice cream sandwiches, Margarita [Kallas-Lee] that’s what Sushi Bar ATX does, “said Müller.
La Barbecue now also has a liquor license and even had a beer brewed by Zilker Brewing, which – of course – is called la Beer.
“My father used to drink Budweiser and we wanted to make an American pilsner in honor of my father, and they were nice enough to work with us,” said Müller.
There was a time when the Texas barbecue could be reduced to the Big Three, classic joints in Lockhart, Llano, and Taylor. Mueller is bringing that legacy to Austin, but with lots of Austin trappings in 2021. It’s the best of both worlds, and with their new digs, it looks like it will stay here.
la Barbecue will be presented this weekend at the Austin Food + Wine Festival. See below for more information.
Austin Food + Wine Festival
The Austin Food + Wine Festival 2021 2021 returns to Auditorium Shores from November 5-7. Bites from more than 50 participating Austin restaurants will be presented along with marquee events such as Tim Love’s Grillin ‘& Chillin’ and the Rock Your Taco Showdown. Tickets for the festival are sold out, but at the time of going to press there were still tickets for the dinner series for evenings at Lutie’s, Canje and Salt & Time. More information is available at austinfoodandwinefestival.com.
LeAnn Mueller and Fermín Núñez team up for the Taste America Dinner
James Beard Foundation’s Taste America supports independent restaurants across America. Their national culinary series includes an event on November 9th in Suerte with a multi-course dinner created by chefs Fermín Núñez from Suerte and LeAnn Mueller from la Barbecue. See the menu below; Tickets available at jamesbeard.org/tasteamerica.
AMUSE BOUCHE Rabbit Hole Boxergrail Rye Whiskey with Chef LeAnn’s homemade cucumber juice with la barbecue brisket
STARTERS Beef Tri-Tip Kimchi Taco
ENTRÉE smoked beef short rib with recado negro, black beans and tortillas or (vegan alternative) smoked cauliflower with mole rojo and almonds
DESSERT Frozen chocolate mousse
COCKTAIL Conejo Barbudo: Rabbit Hole Cavehill Bourbon Whiskey with Sweet Potato, Honey, Lime, Allspice, Falernum and Bitter (Created by Suerte bar manager Patrick Wasetis)
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https://www.austinchronicle.com/food/2021-11-05/la-barbecue-is-built-to-last/
