[ad_1]
MILAN (AP) – Milan basks once again in the joy of the tangled traffic for Milan Fashion Week, a sneak peek of what real normalcy might one day look like.
During personal shows and presentations, health cards are checked at the door, which gives a feeling of security at events that were held off the shoulder not so long ago. Now masks are worn and social distances are maintained.
It has been on and off for the past 19 months and everyone is ready to welcome the reopening, and maybe with a little cloakroom makeover. The simple fashion reaction denim and knitwear as well as easy-to-wear shoes are on the catwalk.
Here are the highlights from the second day of the mostly womenswear previews for the next spring and summer on Thursday:
EMPORIO ARMANI CELEBRATES 40 YEARS
Giorgio Armani celebrated 40 years of the Emporio Armani line with a retrospective in his Silos Museum and a new collection for young chests of drawers that was bursting with colorful optimism.
“You were 40 tough, very tough years. But also beautiful, very beautiful. I have to say seeing these kids as I saw them 40 years ago made me very happy, ”Armani told reporters, referring to the models representing his teenage clients. “Seeing these kids so clean, so easy, so cute made me very happy.”
The Emporio Armani preview for next spring and summer featured both men’s and women’s fashion, starting with denim suits in dark tones for her and patchwork for him, before moving on to more delicate silky looks like chiffon mini dresses or shirts or jackets with belts passed over wide trousers for men.
Menswear looks had a touch of adventure, with cards printed on silk tops and pants, coordinated with khaki or sand-colored items and worn with travel bags. For women there were carefree peasant dresses with a round neckline and flounced sleeves made from the lightest of fabrics.
The collection ended on a bold note of color, with jewel-colored monochromes for him accented by chunky necklaces that Armani said he would love to wear but doesn’t dare. For her, the final note was on skin-bared bead and sequin pieces.
The 86-year-old Armani bowed with Pantaleo (Leo) Dell’Orco and niece Silvana Armani, the respective heads of the design offices for men and women for all Armani collections – a concrete gesture that points to the future creative succession. They all wore matching dark blue tops and pants with white sneakers.
“I have to say that Silvana and Leo have been a remarkable support for this Emporio Armani all these years,” said Armani
MAX MARA RE-THINKS FASHION
Another winter of rolling locks has given Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths plenty of time to reflect.
His latest collection for next spring and summer was inspired by French writer Francoise Sagan, who, when forced by her parents to skip summer holidays on the Côte d’Azur to study instead, defied them intellectually and wrote a novel wrote who idealized a romantic summer vacation.
“We did that too, we reinvented our lives. At the point where we can go out again to rediscover the sheer joy of being in the world, but with this rediscovered inner space, ”Griffiths said backstage.
The new collection is inspired by work clothes with a nod to street clothes. The Max Mara woman shows a little more skin than usual, with bandeau tops peeking over loosely worn coats and miniskirts to show off some leg. Streetwear comes into play in perforated tops and dresses that are both easy to wear and easy to pack. Short shift dresses have practical pockets that can be carried with driving coats. Long dresses in chunky or crocheted minis offer comfort for those early forays back into the world. But there were also imaginative flourishes, delicate feathers on shift dresses under short-sleeved swing coats.
Gigi Hadid ended the show wearing a denim shirt coat with contrast stitching, a mini skirt and a bandeau.
Griffiths said these are looks meant to last more than a season – a nod to a shift in thinking that hardened during the pandemic.
The color palette included neutral tones from black and cream, navy and sand to yellow and orange tones and beach chair stripes. The footwear of choice were slip-resistant sandals with rubber soles.
Griffiths also included a model whose shape was more mundane, girl-next-door proportions, not the tall, gauzy gazelles that were easily spotted on the streets of Milan during Fashion Week. Griffiths said the casting was “expanding the idea of diversity to normal,” and said he wanted to “show a woman who is proud of herself”.
DROMe READY TO RESTART
DROMe creative director Marianna Rosati basked in the chance to “finally live again” and to experience “the feeling of Fashion Week and the feeling that people come together”.
Rosati took inspiration from cinema, music and photography for her latest collection, including graphic imagery and psychedelic imagery that she applied to her statement pieces like corsets and jackets. Her Tuscan-based brand with roots in leather clothing has found fans in Bella Hadid and Ariana Grande.
Colorful corsets had zippers and were overlaid with sporty knitwear. Bandeau tops were worn with lace-up knit biker shorts for a sporty look. Asymmetrical one-shoulder tops wrapped around the bodice have been paired with the brand’s main lederhosen. Leather has been treated with laser printing for a multicolored liquid effect. The color palette consisted of basic white, nude and black with bright pink, heather blue and acid green.
The onslaught of physical events has created the impression that little has changed, but Rosati said that changes may be brewing on an internal level. “Maybe there is a difference in the way we approach things. I feel less stressed, more relaxed. “
[ad_2]
